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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.